Saturday, February 18, 2012

Ribbon of Highway - Dry Run

Ribbon of Highway

Dry Run

October 1, 2011- Bristol Indiana:

The oft-postponed first leg of my motorcycle Odyssey around the U.S. was to begin today – but the temperature outside this morning is 43 degrees, with Atlanta predicting a high of 67 for the day. This puts a little chill into my enthusiasm, even though I have to go to Fort Wayne to coach a soccer game. The rationalizations kick in. I really haven’t checked out the bike for a long trip, not even the tire pressure. I haven’t changed the oil. And the business reason for heading through Nashville has not yet clarified, and might any day now.

So I pack my bag – change of shirt, underwear, socks and dop kit – snap the liner into my leather jacket, buckle on my chaps, wrap a scarf around my neck, turn on the hand grip warmers and seat heater, and start out, not sure whether I will return home tonight or continue heading South if it starts to warm up.

The ride was beautiful. West on US 20 to Shipshewana, then South in SR 5 through Amish country. Flat land. The sky was ice blue with high white clouds and the sun was shining on infinite horizons in all directions. The buggies were out all over between Shipshe and Ligonier, and the farmers were hooking up their Belgians to the wagons to begin the day’s harvest. It was glorious. I shook my head thinking of all the people who overlook this part of the world because it doesn’t have mountains or other spectacular geography. “It’s so flat.” Get out of bed early and ride through it. It’s lush. The beauty is hidden right in plain sight.

South of Ligonier – where they tore down the big brick bug buggy whip factory just a year or two ago – and where now they make tacos and sell tortillas all along Main Street – the land along US 33 becomes rolling hills, pock marked with kettle lakes formed by the last glaciers in this area some 10,000 years ago when the “lakes” were still huge chunks of ice. The Elkhart River and nameless streams wander aimlessly across the landscape.  There are little towns named after victories in the Mexican War of the 1840’s, like Churubusco, named when Americans were still proud of who they are. Ironic that there is now such a large Mexican population across the entire area, hardworking family oriented people who are proud to be here. Churches in Ligonier and Wolf Lake now have Spanish names. But you can also see the American cultural influence as you start seeing Mexican-American kids on all of the high school soccer teams, boys and girls! You would never see these Mexican girls playing soccer in Mexico, but here in American where everything is possible, they are on the team, and their parents are shouting lustily in support in Spanish from the sidelines. Part of the constantly changing American melting pot.

But to the North, dark clouds press in. I think I am catching up to the cold front that blew through Elkhart last night. The thermometer on my bike says 45 degrees, but I don’t believe it, The dark clouds make it feel colder. At 60 mph, its lots colder. I wore cowboy boots this morning, and when I stretch out on the highway pegs, putting them fully in the wind, my feet get cold quickly. Note to self: insulated motorcycle boots would be better!

I stop for gas at a cheap price in Wolf  Lake. Went inside to take a pee, some redneck beat me into the one unisex toilet. I still had my helmet on. The lady from behind the counter came over to me and apologized for the inconvenience, but asked me to remove my helmet. Store policy. They had to see my face so it could be picked up on the security cameras. I asked should I smile? Interesting – even in Wolf Lake Indiana they need security cameras, obviously because they might be (have been?) robbed. And just a obviously they enforce it 24 hours a day, not just at night, making somebody from whom they felt no threat at all remove his helmet. A sad commentary on what our society ahs come to. Meantime I think the redneck died in there or maybe flushed himself down the toilet, so I gave up on waiting and decided to hold it ‘til the next stop! Good decision: that fellow was still in there playing with himself or something by the time I walked out, put on my gloves, helmet and sunglasses, started the bike and pulled out!

Arrived at Fort Wayne Carroll High School – very expensive big new school out in the boonies. I think it’s a Catholic High School. Didn’t warm up much. Our last game of the season and the consensus is that Carroll is better than we are. So much for consensus. We played above some injuries and for once the players all did as the coaches asked – lots of quick passing with minimal dribbling, and though they out shot us, we beat them 2-0. Great way to end a season – smiles and pictures and hugs on our side. Shared Subway sandwiches and cupcakes with sprinkles on top made for one of the girls who turned 16 that day. Sweet 16 and never been kissed – well, maybe in 2011 she had been kissed, but nothing more, I’m sure of it. Sweet  kid.  Not everything has changed that much everywhere!

But still very cold and windy. So I finally decided that maybe this should be a shake-down run rather than the first leg of the real journey. Actually I didn’t want to ride 3 hours in this cold and then have to continue in it the next day if it didn’t turn. So I headed back the way I came, but took a different route through some back roads. Turned North on SR 9 to stop at Chain O’Lakes State Park. That’s another thing strangers overlook about the Midwestern states, a plethora of state parks all with great facilities and something worth seeing and doing. Not just strangers, locals, too. I’ve lived in Indiana almost 14 years and have never made it to Chain O’Lakes which is less than 50 miles from my house! My loss! It has 9 kettle lakes nestled in heavily wooded hills, all connected by canoeing channels. Fishing, swimming and hiking. Lovely rustic “family cabins” for only $70/night during the week, $8-0 on weekends. I will be coming back, and not alone! Note to self: Stay at state parks on the Odyssey. Note to self: state park cabins like these require you bring your own towels and bedding: make sure to pack some on the bike so you don’t have to pass them up in favor of a Holiday Inn Express!

It had warmed a little to 55 degrees. At 55, the ride was definitely comfortable. At 45, definitely uncomfortable. Note to self: travel at 55 degrees and up!

From Chain O’Lakes went North to Albion – picturesque little Indiana farm town in the middle of nowhere with the prototype County Courthouse in the middle of the town square. Then West on
Albion Road
, which twists and turns along the Elkhart River. Great riding road. Passed by a York Hills (?) horse park where people trailer in and camp and/or ride their horses. Didn’t know it was there, either! Rejoined US 33 at West Noble, just South of Ligonier – and booked it for home. Passed several Amish wagons working in the fields, bring in the corn. Not something you see much anymore, those teams of giant horse pulling wagons, and strange devices worked by hand to haul in the ears of corn and separate them from the stalks.

If you’re out this way, stop at Rise n Roll Bakery between Middlebury and Shipshewana on US 20. Wonderful stuff, especially their cinnamon caramel raised donuts! I also bought a pumpkin pie and warmed up with a free cup of coffee.

When I got home, I took inventory of what I should do to my bike before striking out: change oil, coolant, and clutch fluid. Top off brake fluid. Check tightness of rear wheel lugs. Make sure tires are at proper inflation. Check that all electrics are working. Yep, definitely good that this was a shake-down run. Now I’ve got to get all that done and check my packing list!

And in the meantime, I discovered another perfectly lovely day ride SE from home!

9th JUDICIAL DISTRICT - People v H. Head

People v. H. Head

It wasn’t long before the law had another run-in with the Head family. Cecil having lost his license, and Rangeley being a small community, he was careful to have his wife, Henrietta, drive, at least so long as they were in the town limits. Who knows what they did in the invisible vastness outside of town?

Anyway, in order to frequent their favorite watering hole, the Ace High Saloon (and restaurant!), they still had to drive to and through town. Actually, to wasn’t much of a problem. From presented the problem.

Sure enough, a few weeks after the saga of the Big Bird, Henrietta was pulled over driving away from the Ace High and charged with D.U.I. Married to a professional drinker, Henrietta was also savvy in the ways of D.U.I., so she declined a blood sample and demanded a urine test. Nobody likes being stuck with a needle, drunk or sober, so this is a logical choice, but it is also the preferred choice of habitual offenders because it is well known that the procedures for taking a valid urine test to determine blood alcohol content are cumbersome, and that the storage and laboratory procedures are fraught with opportunities for error. Void to purge, wipe to prevent contaminants, pee again, store under secure conditions at prescribed temperatures until the lab can run the test, which might not be for several days in a small burg like Rangeley. The only lab technician is unlikely to hang around at 2 in the morning just in a case a drunk is brought in. Oh, yes, and you can’t forget to maintain a duplicate sample that can be re-tested, which makes you less that popular with those who like to store their sack lunches in the refrigerator. Whoever thought this might make sense, other than defense attorneys?

Deputy Candy accompanied the local constabulary with Mrs. Head to the community hospital to take her urine sample, per her right and due request. For reasons Deputy Candy didn’t explain, the sampling was botched. “Maybe she couldn’t pee the second time?” he suggested. “That’s usually it.” Whatever the reason, once again I had a case against a member of the Head clan unsupported by any scientific evidence of being under the influence. And once again, the venerable O’Rourke was opposing counsel. But this time I had professional medical personnel as a corroborating witness – the nurse on duty, Nancy Dragonette.

I drove up to Rangeley the afternoon of the trial to meet with my witnesses and prepare my case. Nancy could not meet with us until after work, so I met with John late in the afternoon to gather the basic facts. We set had an appointment with Nancy at 5:30 at the Sherriff’s office in the municipal building. Trial was to start at 7, in the courtroom in the same building. John went out to get some sandwiches while I waited for Nancy. She arrived right on time.

‘Hi,” she said shyly as she came in the door. “Are you the District Attorney?”

I couldn’t find my voice. She was stunning. My tongue suddenly seemed too large for my mouth. It couldn’t make words. Her perfect white teeth and sparkling brown eyes were framed by chestnut, bouncing shoulder length ringlets which shimmered in the overhead lights. I understood now why John may have volunteered to take Henrietta to the hospital,  outside his normal jurisdiction.

I nodded mutely. “Can I hang up my coat? It’s warm in here,” she said.

“Oh, oh sure,” was all I could manage. I pointed to the coat tree by the door. I watched transfixed as she wriggled one arm, then the other out of her overcoat, and turned to profile as she hung it on the tree. It only got better. She was still in her nurse uniform, you know, those form-fitting thin little white things. Hers cupped two little mounds of perfect breasts that jiggled when she wriggled, and as her coat stripped back it revealed a slim little waist. The uniform ended somewhere near her knees above in shapely calves. She shook her hair and stood looking at me, waiting expectantly.

“Well?” she asked.

“Yes. Oh, sorry,” I replied dumbly, hastily getting to my feet and pulling out a chair for her in front on the desk. As I held her chair I took a deep breath to regain my composure when she couldn’t see me. I wiped some sweat off my forehead. It wasn’t that warm in the office. As I straightened my tie, I noticed an engagement ring on her left hand.

“Be professional,” I scolded myself as I walked around behind the desk. “What do you do?” I asked.

“THAT was stupid!” I said to myself even as she answered.

“I’m a nurse, silly. That’s why I’m here! Can’t you tell?” She struck a modeling pose in her uniform, as if to say, “Dummy.” All I could think was “Let’s play Doctor…”

I tried to pull myself together by reaching into my briefcase and setting a yellow legal pad, rustling in front of me. “God, I hope I’m not blushing,” I thought.

“That uniform will be great in front of the jury,” I said, trying to sound knowledgeable and authoritative.

“Oh, good. I wondered if I should change, but I really didn’t have time.”

“I wouldn’t change a thing,” I said, and was rewarded by a fetching smile.

“So, your name is Nancy Dragonette? That’s an interesting name, Dragonette.”

“My father was French,” she said.

“Are you from around here? I mean, originally?”

“No, I’m from Denver. I took this job straight out of nursing school.”

“Why here? It’s kind of remote.”

“I like it out here. My father used to hunt around here. And at work, I get to do a lot more  lots sooner than if I had stayed in Denver in a bigger hospital.”

“That makes sense to me. I’m not a big city person, either. Married?”

“No, not yet,” she smiled at me, covering her engagement ring with her right hand as she answered. I smiled back.

Deputy Candy came to my rescue, suddenly backing in the door with an armload of sandwiches and drinks.

“Hey boys and girls, I see you’ve already met. Is anybody hungry?”

“Famished,” she said, turning the bright light of her attention on John.

“Me too,” I said lamely, trying not to sound disappointed.

Over submarines and Coca cola, we got down to the business of what happened in the night of the arrest of Henrietta Head. “So Nancy, how would you describe what condition Henrietta was in when John brought her into the hoispital?”

“Oh, man,” she said between bites of salami and lettuce, “she was drunk. Really drunk.”

“How drunk?”

“Falling down drunk. She could hardly stand up. That’s why we couldn’t get the urine sample,” she said.

“Why is that?” I asked.

“Well, you know, I took her into the bathroom there? And John said I had to stay with her, to make sure she followed the procedure right and that it was really her urine in the cup, you know?”

“God this is sick,” I thought, “I’m sitting here talking with her about taking another woman’s urine sample and all I can think about is how sexy she looks.”

“Hmm,” I said. “Go on.”

“Well, she was so drunk she couldn’t sit on the toilet! That’s why we couldn’t get the sample. I tried to hold her up and, well, help her aim, you know, but she kept slipping off the seat onto the floor.”

“And you can testify to that?”

“Oh, sure. I mean, she couldn’t even sit up on the toilet. That’s drunk.

I had Deputy Candy who pulled her over for erratic driving and accompanied her to the hospital, corroborated by the nurse on duty who would testify that Henrietta Head was so drunk that she couldn’t sit on the toilet seat long enough to fill a plastic cup with urine. This was going to be a piece of cake. She had never testified before in court, so we went over the procedure a little bit, but we spent most of the rest of the interview time talking about other things. There weren’t that many guys her age in Rangeley. Her new fiancĂ© was out of town for the week. She was having second thoughts about getting married so young, but he was pushing. She lived alone in her apartment. No, I’m not married either. Yes, it would be a long drive all the way back to Glenwood Springs when the trial was over.

Nancy preceded us out the office. Deputy Candy nudged me in the ribs and whispered with a conspiratorial wink, “She likes you, pardner.” Things were looking up.

Deputy Candy and I took our places at counsel tale in the courtroom just before 7 o’clock. Nancy Dragonette sat behind the rail, just in back of us. I said “Hi, Bobbie,” to Judge Half, and hello to O’Rourke. “No continuances tonight, right?” he asked. “No, I don’t plan on it,” I laughed back. Henrietta head didn’t laugh. Neither did Cecil, seated in the gallery behind the defense table.

Voir dire and jury selection went quickly. Soon we had a mixed jury of men and women impaneled. In opening statements, I told them that we would not be presenting any scientific evidence of intoxication, so that O’Rourke couldn’t make hay out of revealing that lack to them and confusing them with demands of scientific proof. However, I reminded them that people in their common experience were perfectly capable of determining whether other people were drunk, or not, and this was true long before they invented alcohol blood tests, even before there were cars – the jury nodded appreciatively at my little joke - and that the issue before them was not the percentage of alcohol in Mrs. Head’s blood, but whether she was too drunk to safely operate a car. Blood alcohol level was just one kind of evidence, a way to conclusively show that based on a presumption written into the law that above a certain percentage, you could not operate a car safely. However, that was just one kind of evidence, and the other was the observations of eye witnesses. When I sat down, I felt I had pretty well de-fanged our lack of scientific blood alcohol evidence. O’Rourke surprised me by deferring his opening statement until the beginning of his side of the case, so we began.

Deputy Candy did well on direct, as expected. He was parked near the river when he observed a blue sedan driving erratically from the direction of the Ace High. Erratically meant weaving across the center line. He pulled the car over and smelled alcohol on the breath of the driver, so he asked her to dismount the vehicle. She appeared to be driving under the influence of alcohol. Her speech was slurred. He did not have her perform a field sobriety test (walking a straight line, closing her eyes and touching her finger to her nose, standing on one leg, etc.) because he deemed her incapable of performing it. Instead, he placed her in his car and took her to the community hospital.

Cross did not go so well. O’Rourke was good. He had done hundreds of drunk driving cases.

No, Candy did not see Mrs. Head get into her car, so he did not see her walk before she got in the car, and he could not say that she actually came from the Ace High, only from that general direction. Yes, the Ace High was a restaurant as well as a tavern. And yes, it was true that anybody proceeding on the main road through town heading west would come from the direction of the Ace High. So in fact,  he had no basis to conclude from that observation either that she had been drinking, that she was coming from the Ace High, or even that she had been in a bar. How long had he seen the blue sedan proceeding from his vantage point? Less than a minute, just a block, maybe two. And just how was it proceeding erratically? Weaving across the center line. Not big wide sweeping weaves. No, the car did not completely cross the centerline. And how many times had the blue sedan wandered across the centerline? He wasn’t sure, maybe two or three times. Maybe one or two times? Yes. Maybe only once? He didn’t think so. Yes, he had observed people driving cars who straddled or went across the centerline who were not drunk. More than once. Yes, he himself had on occasion been driving a car that inadvertently went across the centerline. What does alcohol smell like? Deputy Candy had difficulty describing it (try it yourself – how would you describe it)? Had he ever smelled cough syrup? Of course. It smelled sweet, too. Did he know that cough syrup had alcohol in it? Yes. Could he tell the difference between cough syrup smells and say, the smell of a Cosmopolitan? Yes, he thought so. Had he ever tried it on a blind test basis? No, he hadn’t. He did not ask her to do a field sobriety test? No, he did not. He just decided that she would fail? Yes, that was his conclusion? Wasn’t the whole purpose of the test to see if she would fail, or pass? Yes, it was. But he just concluded on his own that she would fail without letting her try? Yes. But then he took her to the community hospital for samples for a blood alcohol level test? Yes. But why would he do that if he had already concluded that she couldn’t pass the field sobriety test? Standard procedure. And this was the test that the District Attorney said he was unable to enter into evidence? Yes. Isn’t it standard procedure to get attest done if you take person fro their car to the hospital to get the test? Yes. But that wasn’t done in this case? No. Just like they field sobriety test is standard procedure? Yes. But that wasn’t done in this case, either?

Deputy Candy didn’t look so good, and I was pissed. Not at him. It wasn’t his fault. He answered truthfully. At myself. I hadn’t covered the field sobriety test enough on direct, and I hadn’t prepared him for this kind of cross examination. Instead, I had been making goo-goo eyes at Nancy Dragonette. I tried to minimize the damage on cross. We emphasized how long he had been with the department, what training he undergone in recognizing people under the influence of alcohol, what the symptoms were. That he had stopped the car because of the erratic driving, but he had not concluded Mrs. Head had been drinking until after he had stopped the car. He tried to slip in that she habitually hung out at the Ace High bar, but O’Rourke objected tat there was no foundation based on his testimony that she had been there, and his objection was sustained – and so Candy looked like he was trying to say something that Judge Half ruled he shouldn’t. We were able to establish that he didn’t administer the field sobriety test be he observed she had difficulty standing, and though she would fall and might even hurt herself if she tried to walk toe to toe or stand on one leg or shut her eyes to touch her nose. But he couldn’t talk to her condition in the hospital bathroom because he couldn’t accompany her or see her there. But we still had our nurse, “She was so drunk she couldn’t sit on the toilet seat without help.”

I couldn’t see it during Candy’s examination, because she was seated behind me and my attention was on Candy and O’Rourke, but as O’Rourke systematically ripped holes in Candy’s credibility, Nancy Dragonette became increasingly apprehensive. When she was sworn in, she looked like the proverbial deer in the headlights – but still enticingly delicious. Things were going to be ok.

I took her through the standard questions to settle her down. Easy stuff, name, address, how long she had been in Rangeley, where she worked, what her duties were. What she was doing when Deputy Candy and Mrs. Head came in. What the procedures were for taking a urine sample to determine blood alcohol levels. She made a good presentation, attractive and competent.

“Did you have occasion to observe Mrs. Head’s behavior?”

“What do you mean?”

“Well, did you see her walk, did you talk to her?”

“We really didn’t talk. Deputy Candy just said that they were there for the urine sample, and that I should accompany her to the bathroom to make sure it was done properly.”

“Did she walk to the bathroom?”

“Well, sort of.”

This was not going well. An experienced witness would have responded, ‘No, she couldn’t walk by herself,’ or something similar. She was too nervous. I was going to have to drag it out of her.

“What do you mean, sort of?”

“Well, Deputy Candy walked with her, he held her by the arm.”

“Because she could not walk by herself?”

“Objection,” interrupted O’Rourke. “Calls for a conclusion. There’s no foundation. There is no testimony that Miss Dragonette saw Mrs. Head walk by herself.”

The objection was sustained.

“Did you see Mrs. Head attempt to walk by herself?”

“No, not really,” she answered.

No matter. The real deal was coming – ‘she was s drunk she couldn’t even sit on the toilet seat.’

“Ok, now then, you accompanied her into the bathroom, is that correct?’

“Yes,” she breathed.

“Did you observe anything unusual about her behavior while you were with her in the bathroom?”

“What do you mean, unusual?”

“Shit – just say she couldn’t sit on the toilet seat, can’t you?” I though to myself, beginning to lose my temper. “What do I ask her without drawing leading objection?”

“Well, anything that might lead you to conclude whether or not she was intoxicated?”

“Oh, I don’t know if I could do that.”

“What?” I said to myself. O’Rourke looked up from the defense table, smelling blood. He opened his mouth to speak and half rose.

“I beg your pardon?” I blurted before O’Rourke could say whatever he was planning to say. “Why not?”

“I couldn’t say whether or not she was intoxicated.”

O’Rourke sat back down.

“What?” went racing through my brain again, “Why can’t you just say what you said to me three times not more than an hour ago, that she was so drunk she couldn’t sit on the toilet seat without help?” I just looked at her for a moment.

“Well, did you not form a conclusion as to whether Mrs. Head was intoxicated?”

“Objection. Asked and answered. The witness just admitted she was incapable of making such a judgment.”

“Sustained.”

“Did you obtain the urine sample?”

“No, we did not.”

“Why not?”

“Mrs. Head couldn’t pee into the cup.”

“God damn it, can’t you just say she was too fucking drunk to sit on the toilet without help?” I screamed to myself.

“Why not?”

“Well,” Nancy looked a little embarrassed. “She had trouble aiming?”

The jury tittered sympathetically.

“SHE-WAS-SO-FUCK-ING-DRUNK-SHE-COULDN’T-FUCK-ING-SIT-ON-THE-FUCK-ING-TOILET-SEAT, YOU-FUCK-ING-NO-MIND!” Of course, I didn’t say that, I just wanted to.

“Could she sit on the toilet seat?” I asked.

“Objection. Leading the witness.”

“Sustained.”

“Why did she have trouble aiming?”

“Objection. Calls for conclusion as to state of mind.”

“Your honor, I’m not asking about her state of mind. I’m just trying to find out what Miss Dragonette observed that caused her to believe that Mrs. Head had trouble aiming.”

“That seems reasonable,” said Jude Hoff.

“So long as The District Attorney isn’t trying to lead her into testifying whether or not Mrs. Head was intoxicated. Miss Dragonette has already testified that she is not competent to testify as to that,” aid O’Rourke.

“Yes,” agreed Bobbie Half, “So long as you don’t try to lead her into testifying whether or not Mrs. Head was intoxicated. Please proceed.”

“Thank you, your Honor,” I said. “You may answer the question, Miss Dragonette.” I sent brain wave messages as hard as I could, “The answer is, she couldn’t fill the cup because she was so drunk that she couldn’t stay on the toilet seat by herself…”

“Oh, dear,” said Miss Dragonette. “I’m afraid I don’t remember the question.”

“That’s all right, Miss Dragonette. Just relax, and I’ll ask it again. I’ll even rephrase to make it clear that I am not asking you to make a conclusion about Mrs. Head’s state of mind.  OK?”

“Yes, OK,” she said nervously.

“OK, then. What did you observe that made you believe that Mrs. Head had trouble, er, aiming her urine to get it in the sample cup?”

I wanted to add, “You twit, just say she kept sliding of the toilet seat.”

“Why did I believe she had trouble aiming?”

“Yes.”

“Because she kept missing.”

‘Oh my God,’ went through my brain.

“Anything else?”

“Objection. Asked and answered. Leading the witness.”

“I’m afraid I have to sustain that objection.”

There were no further questions of any consequence. O’Rourke didn’t cross examine. He knew not to screw up a good thing.

I had no more witnesses. ”The prosecution rests.”

O’Rourke didn’t even put on a witness. We went straight to closing arguments. O’Rourke hammered on reasonable doubt.  Deputy Candy never saw where she came from and never saw her take a drink. He did not have Mrs. Head do a field sobriety test, and for some unexplained reason, the state did not offer a blood alcohol test, even though Deputy Candy took her to the hospital precisely for that reason. Miss Dragonette could not form a conclusion as to whether or not Mrs. Head was intoxicated. If she, there and on the scene that very night, could not form such a conclusion, how could they, in this courtroom several months later, with no field sobriety test and no scientific evidence of blood alcohol levels, make such a conclusion, especially beyond a reasonable doubt? And remember, she did not have to take the stand in her defense, as she was presumed innocent unless proven guilty, which was the burden of the State of Colorado.

My argument? Well, I couldn’t comment on Mrs. Head not taking the stand in her own defense to say where she was really coming from and what did happen or did she even remember anything about that night, because that is not allowed, regarded as an infringement against her Constitutional right against self-incrimination. And, I couldn’t say she was so fucking drunk she couldn’t even sit on a toilet seat. And I couldn’t say the nurse on duty said she was intoxicated. And I had not scientific evidence of a blood alcohol level that would create a legal presumption that she was under the influence of alcohol. So, I reminded them of Deputy candy’s training and testimony about her erratic driving behavior, her slurred speech and his conclusion that having her do a field sobriety test was unnecessary because there was no way she would have passed in her inebriated condition.

Judge Half gave the jury their instructions and they filed out to the jury room. Deputy Candy, Miss Dragonette and I retired to the Sheriff’s office to await the verdict.  As soon as we shut the door, I couldn’t wait anymore, I was just shaking my head.

Nancy, why wouldn’t you say she was intoxicated? I mean, you told me time and again that she was so drunk that she couldn’t even stay on the toilet seat with out help!”

She looked at me with her big doe eyes. “Why, you didn’t ask me if she was drunk.”

It took me a minute to process what she had said. I just looked at her, a little bit dumfounded. I looked at candy. He rolled his eyes to the ceiling and said nothing. Finally I asked, as nicely as I could muster, “Nancy, what’s the difference?”

She said nothing. She just kept looking at me.

Nancy?”

Her eyes started to fill with water. “I didn’t think I could say she was intoxicated.” She mumbled.

Nancy, why not?”

“I’m not a doctor.”

“Yes, I know that. You’re a registered nurse.”

“But only a doctor could say whether or not she was intoxicated.”

“What?” I asked.

“Only a doctor could say whether or not she was intoxicated,” she repeated.

Nancy, drunk is just intoxicated with alcohol. In fact, I think drunk and intoxicated are synonyms for each other in the dictionary.”

“But I thought only a doctor could say whether or not a person is intoxicated,” she repeated.

I just shook my head, “No.”

“I’m sorry,” she mumbled. “I didn’t know.”

“But then why didn’t you just say that she couldn’t even sit on the toilet seat without help? That’s why she couldn’t pee in the cup?”

“I don’t know,” she said lamely. “I guess I was nervous. My mind just went blank. ..I screwed up, didn’t I? Is she going to get off because of me?” Her lower lip trembled.

“I don’t know. That’s up to the jury. But it sure would have been a lot easier if you had just said up there what you told me in here.”

“It is my fault, isn’t it?”

“No, that’s ok,” I  said. “It’s not your fault. If she gets off, it’s my fault. I should have made it clear to you exactly what I expected you to say. I should have gone over the exact question I was going to ask and the response I expected. I didn’t. That’s my fault.”

“I’m sorry,” she said again.

“It’s ok,” I said. “All we can do now is wait.”

“Do I have to wait? I have an early morning shift tomorrow,” she said.

“No, you don’t have to wait. It may be a while before they come back in. You go along. We’ll tell you what happens.”

She stood up to retrieve her overcoat from the tree.  As she stretched over to reach it, her skirt slid up her leg, exposing more of her thigh. I couldn’t tear my dirty mind away from the way her body moved under that trim little uniform.

“Thanks,” she said at the door. “And I really am sorry that I screwed up.”

No, ‘See you later?’ or ‘Here’s my phone number, I’ll wait to hear from you’ or ‘Please come by afterwards and jump my bones…’

“Thank you,” I said. “And you didn’t screw it up,” I lied to her back as she stepped through the door.

Not the parting I had hoped for. I looked at Candy. He shrugged his shoulders. “Hey, if it gets too late,” he said, “I can clear out the bunk in the cell, and you can sleep there tonight.”

“Great.”

It got very late. Despite the lack of all the good ev8idence, the jury was evidently having a difficult time with this case. A little pasty midnight, Bobbie Half called us back into the courtroom. The jury filed in and took their seats.

“Mr. Foreman, has the jury reached a verdict?” she asked.

“We have, your Honor.”

“Will the defendant please rise?” Mrs. Head stood up and faced the jury.

“And what is that verdict, please?”

“We find the defendant not guilty,” announced the foreman.

Bobbie thanked the jury for their service, and exchanged good nights with counsel. We dispensed with the usual post-trial banter as we were all tired. Besides, I really wasn’t in the mood. Mrs. Head gave me a triumphant look as she left the courtroom.

“You want me to fix up that bunk?” Candy asked.

“No. Thanks anyway, but  I’ll pass,” I said. “I’ll just drive on home.”

But I didn’t get home that night. Two thirds of the way to Meeker, my engine quit on me. There were no cell phones in those days, no traffic on this road late at night, and nothing but coyotes, elk and mule deer for miles in all directions, so there was nothing to do except try to keep from freezing in the chill mountain fall air.  I pulled out a blanket  from a road emergency kit that I kept in my trunk, and huddled beneath it in my parka in the back seat until morning, teeth chattering while I tried to keep warm with thoughts of Nancy Dragonette. I woke in the early morning, startled to be surrounded by a thick fog and dozens of ghostly figures – elk that had come down from the cold in the high country to stand on the pavement and enjoy the heat it gave off from what it had absorbed from the sun during the day. An hour later, a rancher on his way to town stopped, and gave me a ride into town in his pick-up.

I never saw Nancy Dragonette again. I suppose she eventually married her fiancĂ©. 

Wednesday, February 15, 2012

Ribbon of Highway - Route 1 - Leg 4 2012

Leg 4

Florida
February 2-6, 2012

Thursday, February 2

Back to Boca in February – what a trial! This will be a short leg because so many things are going on that I have to wedge it in so that the BMW will be staged in Ponte Vedra for Leg 5 in March to NOLA. I had originally planned to cut across the peninsula to Sarasota (lovely town - lots of art, beaches, beautiful harbor, great restaurants, Armand Circle and beaches), but that’s 230 miles across and even more up he Gulf Coast and then back across up to Jacksonville, pretty hard riding for an old geezer like me, so I may forego circumnavigating the circumference of the peninsula and just take a leisurely wander up to St. Augustine. It is actually quite liberating to not know exactly where you are going or where you are going to stay. It is a microcosm of what this ride is supposed to be all about. Our lives are too organized, too scheduled out, every detail planned with appointments and reservations. Very efficient but limiting. Spontaneity is all about what is not scheduled. I’m looking forward to not knowing exactly what I’m going to do or where the next few days, just seeing what happens.

Aided and abetted by extremely mild winter weather,

Occupy Wall St.
is still with us. I think it’s a toss up whether we are all more sick of them or the Republican primary debates. I wish the presidential hopefuls would quit taking pot shots at each other and focus on what they intend to do to fix this mess the country is in. O’Bummer isn’t any better, telling us of his latest fairytale about how he is going to fix the housing crisis (again) with a new bail-put program for underwater homeowners. Same old same old, more money form Uncle Sam will make everything better.  Instead of sound bites and debates about open marriage, I wish candidates would give us some real information so we can decide who will be the better leader and which plan we like best – isn’t that what voters are supposed to do?

At least meatier topics are in the news now. The Keystone Pipeline has become a political football, O’Bama catering to the environmentalists who claim that this pipeline running through Kansas and Nebraska will be a disaster (have you ever seen a map of all the pipelines that already criss-cross this country? I have a natural gas pipeline that runs 200 yards form my house!). But I don’t think that’s really the issue. This oil comes from Canadian oil sands. It’s a new source of petroleum. We have huge reserves in oil sands and oil shale that we have not exploited. The environmentalists don’t want to go down the oath of extracting oil form the oil sands or the oil shale. Cutting off that source of carbon based fuel is more important to them than energy independence from the sheiks (they would rather pursue ghettos of mirrors in our deserts and forest of windmills across our mountains, seas and plains), and anything that would bring down the price of gasoline pushes us further form that Holy Grail. Thousands of jobs in the middle of a depression (ooh, dast I say it?)? Sorry guys, green energy is more important than your paycheck. This impasse is symptomatic of what is wrong with our country today: we are roughly split down the middle and can’t agree on much of anything. Rather than finding solutions, politicians on both sides take positions. It doesn’t matter which side of this debate you are on, we have the resources, intelligence and capability to resolve it, but we don’t. There is nothing wrong with this country that isn’t the fault of and could not be cured by 545 people in Washington. That is why our “representatives” have such crappy approval ratings.

Hey, some good news I bet you weren’t aware of! A little known trigger provision in our laws since 1990 automatically cut off the U.S. funding of UNESCO (22% of UNESCO’s budget) when UNESCO voted 107-14 to approve full membership for Palestine! I wonder why we haven’t heard more of this? I also wonder if somebody found a back door way to make up the difference to UNESCO?

Will the Euro collapse and send the world into depression? Will Israel attack Iran to destroy its nuclear weapon capability – a threat that has been both well known and credible for well over a decade and which nobody, not Clinton, not Bush, not O’Bummer, had the foresight, balls and fortitude to address? Will Iran retaliate with a bio-terrorist attack in the US? More importantly, will the Patriots or the Giants win the Superbowl Sunday? And most immediately, where will I sleep tonight?

I stay in the casita of some friends in Boca. They are so generous. They give me my own little house next to their pool. They kept my bike in the garage for a month and a half, picked me up at the airport, even went out to Starbucks at 6 a.m. this morning to get me a Grande and heated up some black cherry pie for breakfast, while I was on a conference call to China. I am so grateful to have friends like this all over the country – really, all over the world. I don’t know how I would pull off this serial Odyssey without warm hearted people like them!

Friday February 3

Got a late start today. Combination of weather, raining a little in the morning, and suddenly a lot of work that needed tending to. Never fails, does it? I spend 80% of my days rattling around an empty office with nobody contacting me about anything, and then day I try to slip away suddenly the roof falls in. I finally get on the road a little after lunch, take the Camino Real to

Ocean Boulevard
, and after a quick stop at the Boca beach, head North to Palm Beach. The rain has been pretty much blown out to sea by a “cold’ front coming through, so its partly sunny and in the 70’s – perfect riding weather.













Today I drove 36 miles up the coast and except for a few hundred yards at Briny Breezes in Gulf Stream, I’ll bet I didn’t pass one residence that cost less than $250,000 – and those were the less expensive condos. (You know you are among the condos without looking past the sidewalks, as they are full of people in their 70’s and 80’s out for their exercise walks. No walking in the malls here, no sir – but the strides are the same!). For the houses, my guess is you start at $500,000 and add zeros.

It just blows me away how much wealth there is in this country, and Palm Beach is the land of he wealthiest. Along this stretch, you start in the out-of-reach neighborhoods, full of Italianate mansions with sweeping staircases, balconies, 30 foot glass windows, and even turrets, many with porticos to drive into bricked courtyards around huge fountains, all screaming “look at me! I’ve made it! I’m rich, aren’t you impressed?” then you ease into the really-rich neighborhoods, where there are so many gated entrances to the grounds that they have to be labeled “Exit Only” and “Service,”  sprinkled among ocean front golf courses all marked “PRIVATE.” Of course, everything is impeccably manicured by dozens of Hispanics all wearing the same blue uniform shirts. Its probably illegal to drive a dirty car in these communities. But then you get into the unimaginably-wealthy neighborhoods where it’s all about concealing the palaces behind the walls. This is the land of the Kennedys, the Flaglers, and the Lauders. You can’t see in, by design. High walls, and smartly trimmed hedges as high as 20 feet, and when there is an entrance, there is likely an ornate landscape feature that you have to drive around. I saw 2 Rolls Royces,  a Bentley, a Bugatti and a Ferrari all inside of 30 minutes. Kind of put my struggle ever whether to spend a few thousand dollars to put some new hard wood floors in our living room into perspective…and reminded me of why I left New England so many years ago. The haves have so much that even when you make it to the one percenters you can still barely see the foothills behind which starts the climb of Alps of to the truly wealthy. At my boarding school a very nice guy across the hall, below average student but very nice guy, got 40 acres and the house of his choice in Litchfield County, Connecticut as his high school graduation present. High school. I got $100. And a week later, I spent that on my first New Haven Railroad monthly commuter ticket into New York for my summer job, while he was on the Grand Tour of Europe. Hey, you can’t blame him for being born into wealth, but I could sure blame myself if I stuck around to rub my nose in it. Besides, we all swim in the same ocean and soak up the same sun, he doesn’t drink any better Scotch than I do, and the girls I dated were better looking and much more fun!

So I’m glad I made that drive, it was beautiful in its own way, but I won’t be hurrying back. And tonight I’m sleeping in a nice little bed and breakfast right across the street from the beach, managed by a very cute gay couple. What could be better than that?

And so to prove the point to myself, for dinner I had a Hendricks martini and stone crab while overlooking the surf. It doesn’t  get any better than that! J


Saturday, February 4

I doubt any of the gazillionaires in Palm Beach woke up to a “continental”
breakfast of toast-your-own bagel, jam and cream cheese in little plastic tubs, a selection of Yoplait, and coffee and orange juice in paper cups. Reality over a cup of java.

Leaving the breathtaking coast line of Palm Beach, I headed West on 98/441 into a different kind of Florida. It did not take long for the mansions to end, and after a brief ride through the-big-mall-area-in every-US-suburb, it gives way to public housing projects. I pass a big and busy Paintball field. Whenever you see paintball businesses, you know you are on land that nobody wants!

A big road sign says West Palm Beach County, Gateway to the Glades. Pretty soon I am doing 75 in the middle of vast sugar cane fields, stretching to the horizon in all directions as far as the eye can see. This is not mid-west farm land. No houses, no gas stations, no trees, no barns, no villages, no country stores at cross roads, no nothing except drainage canals and sugarcane fields and big tractors. I’ve read of this, but the reality is startling. Where are the glades? This is a modern day corporate plantation, one vast agro-engineering project. Whenever you see workers, incongruously they are wearing orange hard hats, OSHA gone stupid again. The black guys are in the ditches and on the tractors, the white guys are in the pick up trucks. The soil is some of the blackest, richest I have ever seen.

Touring by motorcycles is a lot like riding horses for long distances. Its difficult to have a conversation, people ask me what do you do? You are mostly alone with your thoughts while very much in your environment, breathing sweet flower smells when you cross a slough or the distinctive smell of cane burning with an intensity you can’t have in a car, feeling the rain drops if it starts to sprinkle, buffeted by gusts of wind, and of course no “climate controlled” temperature. It is not an activity to escape from yourself. For hours at a time, you think about where you are going, where you have been, what you have done, what’s going on around you, what you wish to do. You have time to turn things over and look from different perspectives, and to work out a lot of thorny problems. You may ride your motorcycle away from something or to some excitement, but in between you learn a lot about yourself. If you are afraid of introspection, don’t ride!

Finally a building. A big sign says

Sugar House Road
, and steam is rising from the huge corrugated steel sugar mill. And large institutional building at a crossroad, which turn out to be state buildings. One says medical center but the look like prison compounds. There are large shed that look like field equipment repair facilities, and then a small neighborhood of single story concrete houses painted pink. I turn North on 441 toward Lake Okeechobee. I’ve always wanted to see this huge lake, sitting in the middle of the amps of Florida surrounded by the Everglades.

I am soon disappointed. I pull into Pahokee, according to the map on the shores of Lake Okeechobee. The first thing I see is a group of idle young black men clustered around a dusty building that says Discount Liquor. (I wonder, have you ever seen a liquor store that says Expensive Liquor?). A sign proudly says Pahokee is the home of Ricky Jackson, Hall of Famer – sorry, don’t recognize him. A strapping young black man with chiseled shoulders is walking along the shoulder of the road, and the first thing that springs to mind is “field hand.” Run down trailer homes are interspersed with Pahokee Housing Authority concrete public housing and old tumbledown wooden shotgun houses on stilts. Pickups out number cars 6 to 1. Old black women in dumpy non-descript dresses push old grocery carts down the sidewalks accompanied by young teenage girls in skin tight shorts, the past walking next to the future and it all looks the same. I also see a mixed couple, black man and white woman, proof that despite the poverty this is still the equal opportunity New South. Downtown, more groups of black men drinking beer and from sacks in empty lots next to empty buildings, only these guys are old. It’s easy to tell the white part of town, but it isn’t Palm Beach, either. The nicest building in Pahokee is the sheriff’s office. If you’ve come to Pahokee, you’ve pretty much come to the end of the line.

Palm Beach, Pahokee. The contrast is too stark. It’s wrong. If I had to live in Pahokee, I’d be a Democrat, too.

I drive along

Lake Okeechobee Road
, and
Lake Shore Drive
, and don’t see the lake. In fact, I drive on 441/98 all the way to Okeechobee and never see the lake except once. The lake is behind a fifty mile long, fifty foot high dike, with limited access allowed every ten or 20 miles. On the West side of the road, dike. On the East side of the road, a small strip of what I imagine used to be the landscape, with an occasional home on stilts that has seen better days, with those drained farm fields stretching behind them. The only place I see the lake is on top of a big overpass crossing a flood control channel, where you can see over the dike to a gigantic bathtub of water. Everything about it says “impoundment.” Thank you, Army Corps of Engineers. The lake is like the Great Lakes in that it is so big you can’t see the other side. No islands, no primitive waters blending into channels though marshes and hammocks choked with fronds and palm trees and everglades at an ill defined shoreline. Just a bath tub with a dusty rocky rim. The “
Lake Okeechobee Scenic Route
” is a bad joke.

Even more pathetic is the rim of water that surrounds the dike at its base. There is maybe 200 yards between Route 441 and the dike, and in this stretch a channel maybe 50 feet wide, with boat lunches at every access point to the dike. The first time I saw a For Sale, Waterfront sign, I laughed out loud. Then I saw enough of them to realize they were serious! Houses back up to it, and pretty soon I am in RV Park Heaven. What’s even more surprising, the crummy little parks are full! Why? What’s here worth a vacation? The bass fishing must be very good. I suppose if the only comparison is Pahokee, this could pass as Palm Beach. And right in the midst of all this, I pass a sign that says “Polo Event Today”, and gates that direct in spectators with another for trailers to some polo field off behind some trees far from the highway. I’m clearly missing something. Go figure.

I cut North at Okeechobee. It’s the first real town I have been through since West Palm Beach, unless you count Pahokee. Chain stores, gas stations, a Holiday Inn, and family restaurants with all you can eat buffets for $8. Lots of Indians, which isn’t surprising as there is a reservation just to the West. From Okeechobee North, the landscape changes. This is horse and cattle country, real eastern cowboy country. I pass one ranch that advertises “Cattle, Citrus and Catfish.” Ranch after ranch with flat spreading pastures dotted with Angus and Herefords, and the local high school mascot is the Brahman. I would think I was in Kansas except for the palm trees. The ride becomes quite beautiful, with those palm trees gradually giving way to live oaks draped in Spanish Moss, and then more and more of the Southern Pines. I have an up close and personal encounter with a big and gorgeous bald eagle that flies up not ten feet next to me when I disturb its feast on some road kill. Close up look at its big hooked yellow beak, white head and black and white wings and body, simply awesome! Later I pass an intersection that seems to be in the middle of nowhere, but there’s a pickup parked there with two little girls sitting behind tables, while two men in cowboy hats, probably their fathers lean against the pick up truck and chew the fat. The back of the pick up is full of boxes, and a big hand lettered sign says “Girl Scout Cookies.” I should have taken a picture!

Where 441 heads West to Tampa, I cut back over to the Coast, and winding up SR 490 and SR520 to I90. Very pretty. A few miles on the Interstate to Titusville, then over to the Martin Island Wildlife Refuge North of Cape Canaveral. This is worth the detour. Finally a barrier island that is not all high rises and fast food joints. The road is a pretty  park way though what I imagine what the Florida Coast would be like in the wild. It compensates a little for the

Lake Okeechobee Scenic Route
, although it is a little disconcerting to see all the Waterfowl Hunter Access signs in a wildlife refuge....

I accidentally explore new Smyrna Beach until I figure out you can’t get to Daytona Beach from there without a boat! There is a little thing called Rose Bay and Spruce Creek in between. So with an interesting little detour, I again across the intra-coastal on the Silver Beach Bride to “The Most Famous Beach in the World”, Daytona Beach. I’ve been by it many times, but never stayed here, so I say what the h and go right to the heart of it, Main Street, the Pier and the civic auditorium and get a room at The Hilton, with a room on the 9th floor overlooking the beach. You can open the doors and listen to the surf, and the Slingshot is right outside my window. Two people sit in a cage and are slung about 150 feet straight up into the air between two steel towers, and then free-fall back toward earth, head over heels, bouncing up again and over on two big bungee cords amidst lots of screaming and laughing. Very cool.




The beach lives upThe beach lives up to its hype. Great rolling breakers, wide smooth hard packed sand. I wander up and down it with some Gentleman Jack on ice in a paper cup, and am quite content to take it all in while getting bleary. Several groups of Chinese (!) tourists laughing and making one legged poses in the water for their friends to take photographs the way only the Chinese do, one girl sitting down in the waves fully clothed. Why don’t they just wear bathing suits like everybody else? The hotel is overrun with girls volleyball teams who must be in town for some kind of tournament, so of course there is a shortage of beach towels and the hot tubs are choked rim-to-rim with 15 year olds. But it’s all fun. Maybe I’ll come back during bike week some year, totally different crowd and totally different kind of fun! Dinner of spiced boiled shrimp and fried fish at a local institution called the Ocean Deck – wonderful! - and then to bed early after a great day’s ride!

Sign of the Day? Has to be a toss up. “West Palm Beach County, Gateway to the Glades”, “

Lake Okeechobee Scenic Route
”, or “Waterfront Property For Sale.” Sad.

Sunday, February 5, 2012

On a whim, left Daytona Beach to the tunes of Celtic music, bagpipes and fiddles, driving North to Ormond Beach and then East on 40. I debated whether to go up the coast on AIA, which is a pretty ride, but been there, done that so I decided on the inland route.

I come to a stoplight by a small cemetery with an old archway that reads Pilgrims Rest. Right by the road is an old tomb with FATHER in big block letters, and a small Confederate battle flag. I notice three or four rounded brick tombs rising from the dirt a little further back, also with the Confederate battle flags, and then I quickly survey the rest of the cemetery. I can see several more graves with the memorial flags. This must have been an astoundingly high percentage of the able-bodied white male population of Ormond Beach back in 1865. Still being remembered.

After the now-familiar Florida pattern of expensive waterfront, decaying but renovating old city on the mainland side of the intracoastal, followed by subdivisions and large shopping centers, the I-95 corridor, and then newer subdivisions on the far side, 40 quickly gives way to piney woods and horse farms. This is real horse country, with ranchettes, equestrian centers, and cross roads named Pinto, Appaloosa and Rodeo. The ranches phase out, and I am soon riding through a pine forest. The temperature is in the low seventies and the aroma of pine needles is strong. HOG radio 95.7 is blasting Bon Jovi, Rock and Roll Fantasy, Bad Company, Bob Seeger and the Silver Bullet Band, A Long Way, Detroit Wheels, Santana, the Grateful Dead.  Couldn’t resist, gotta swerve the bike back and forth a little bit while listening to the music, head bobbing to the beat! Life is good.

Lots of other bikers are out this early Sunday morning. Most of them are older guys, some of the more hippie types sporting big white beards. Maybe its because the motorcycle romance of the freedom of the open road created by Marlon Brando, Steve McQueen and Captain America in Easy Rider has not translated to the post 60’s generations. Maybe it’s because only the older guys have the money to buy these big road bikes and the free time to get out on the road. There are more and more women riders, too, and fewer and fewer look butchy. That’s great for them, but I’d much rather have my “lady” behind me, thighs on each side of mine where I can reach out and stroke them and squeeze a knee, or lean back and feel her chest pressed against me, maybe even get a back scratch or a neck rub. J That’s two-up riding!

I am now clearly in English Florida. Rivers named Halifax and St. John’s, lakes named George. Pulling into Barberville, I have to stop and take a photo of an old house converted into a store that features the largest collection of cast bronze garden statuary that I have ever seen, anywhere. Elephants, moose, Indians, children in donkey carts, acres of the stuff. How does a store like that make it in Barberville?

And past Barberville, a warning sign – bear crossing. Cool!

I pass up turning North on Route 17 that cuts between Lake George and Crescent Lake in favor of Route 19. hey are both marked as Florida Scenic Highways, but 19 seems to skirt up the West shore of Lake George. I’m hoping to catch views of the water turn.

NOT. Never even a glimpse of the lake from the highway! But I do turn into a public recreation area at Silver Springs. What jewel! Hardly anybody there. I had heard often a bout canoeing to beautiful cold freshwater springs that bubble up in the Florida forests, but I have never done that or seen one. This was fantastic. Much larger than I expected, you could see the billows of freshwater rippling the surface as the water continuously rises through four feet of crystal clear water. The photographs do not do the colors of the water justice. You can see the fish like they are in aquarium, and you can wade right in and swim with them. Some kind of merganser or duck suddenly surfaced. What a great place to spend and afternoon picnic with friends.
While there, I meet some fellow bikers from Canada, a couple from New Brunswick to be exact. They have hauled their big Honda down in a toy hauler, then they ride around in big looping runs. He is jealous of the BMW, says he love his Honda but always wanted a Beemer. We swap stories about where we have been and where we are going. They are doing something very similar to me, traveling the United States before they get too old and decrepit to no longer be able to do it. They spend 2 months at a time, then drive their truck and trailer back up to winter. Last year they did Texas, this year Florida. They gave me some tips about good and not so interesting places to ride in Nova Scotia, and were terribly enthusiastic about the ride around the Gaspe Peninsula in Quebec, felt it was even better than the Cabot Trail around Cape Breton Highlands at the top of Nova Scotia. I resolved to add it to my itinerary. Nice people. We wished each other well and went our separate ways.

Despite never seeing Lake George, Route 19 is a very pretty drive. I pass a fair grounds advertising bull riding and barrel racing, Saturday night, Shoot, I just missed it – that I would have gone to!  Definitely big ranch and cowboy country.

I cut back over to the coast and St. Augustine at Palatka. As I enter the oldest town in the United States, I pass the Showboat carwash. This is real Americana. Nowhere else but the lazy car-crazy culture of American do you have a car wash made to like a floating palace! Think about it, to wash you car all you need is a bucket of soapy water, a rag or sponge and a garden hose. Doing it in the driveway at home on a hot Sunday afternoon is fun! Instead, we pay $5 to drive some mechanical monster that does a lousy job but in twice the time – and this mechanical monster is made to look like a Mississippi Riverboat sternwheeler. I recall having seen a Whale of a Wash someplace where  you could pretend to be Jonah as you drove your car into a gigantic whale. Drive-ins that look like hamburgers. Heck, the Oscar Mayer Weinermobile. This is America! I resolve right then and there to begin taking photos of all these icons of the fading American car culture. Drive-ins and car washes! My motorcycle odyssey now has a new mission!

I stay at the Bay Front Hilton, right on the Mantanzas River across the street from the Lions Bridge. This is one of my favorite Hiltons anywhere. Its architecture blends right in with the old buildings on either side but inside of course it’s all the up to date modern amenities. The last time I stayed here Coachmen, ironically also on a Super Bowl weekend – ancient history, now!
I walk a block to the Acapulco Mexican restaurant right across the street from the old Spanish Fort where Geronimo was imprisoned. I get a table outside on the second floor balcony overlooking the fort and the bay. Acapulco has the best freshly made guacamole anywhere. That and a couple of beers are lunch. What next to do in this city? Stroll the streets and poke around curio shops and art galleries? Done the Ripley’s Believe it or Not Museum and even the Alligator Farm with the albino alligator! Know the neighborhoods and the campus of Flagler College, I found something I had yet to do – Villa Zorayda. Greta choice. A wealthy aristocrat from Boston with decided to build his summer home in St. Augustine in the early 1900’s, and he constructed a 1/10 scale replica of the Moorish Alhambra Palace in Granada Spain. It was the structure of that architectural style built in St. Augustine and it led to the building of Casa Monica and all the luxury hotels and building in the same style, giving the city the character that it has today. Villa Zorayda is really fascinating. It has been a private home, a private club, a speakeasy, a casino and now, a museum filled with priceless antiquities, including the Scared Cat Rug – 2,400 years old, 4 feet long and woven entirely of Egyptian cat fur from the Nile. A several hundred year old 3-D carving of Columbus. All kinds of weird and wonderful stuff, and the house is cool all by itself!

Cajun dinner of gumbo, blackened red fish, red beans and rice listening to live acoustic guitar at Harry’s, then watch a little of the Giants beating the Patriots.

Sign of the Day, on a church outside of Ormond Beach:  “A dusty Bible leads to a dirty life.” Well, there you have it.



Monday February 6


Over breakfast, I read an article in the Wall Street Journal, “No Need to Panic about Global Warming.” I’ve read a lot of books about global warming in the last few years. I believe in climate change -  hey, we had woolly mammoths before wine grapes were grown in England and Greenland wasn’t called green because it was covered with ice - I am just very skeptical that we as humans have a lot of causative effect, i.e., blame. I am suspicious of the science behind “carbon footprints.” Sounds like a modern day Bogeyman to me, a justification to force people to do things they otherwise would not do. And then here is this article, signed by 16 scientists of really impressive pedigrees saying “Enough!, we will no longer be intimidated into silence – the world is NOT flat!” A Nobel Prize winning physicist, apparently a supporter of O’Bama in the last election, recently resigned from the American Physical Society “because I cannot live with the [APS] policy statement: The evidence is incontrovertible: Global warming is occurring…We must reduce emissions of greenhouse gases beginning now.” The article cites the “inconvenient facts” that there has been no global warming for the last decade and much smaller than computer model predicted warming over the last 22 years. They go on to detail scientists who have been treated as heretics and viciously attacked for the heresy of questioning global warming dogma. Interesting. Sounds like the history of another religion… Oh, well, it’s been in the mid to high 70’s and great riding weather in North Florida in February. Who am I to complain? God grant me the wisdom not to worry about things I can do nothing about…

Just a skip up the road this morning to Ponte Vedra on AIA, across the bridge to Vilano Beach and then up the coast through Guana River State Park. As many times as I have done this ride, I always look forward to doing it again – it is one my favorite stretches of roads anywhere in the U.S. of A.

550 miles. Short and sweet. I park the bike again in a friend’s garage, and after coffee and pleasantries, head for the airport.